Quilted Weekender Bag #5

I had the opportunity to do something that I have never done before over the last couple months. 

I taught my very first real life sewing class at a darling local shop in my town! 

It was such a great experience for me. I decided to teach a class on how I make my quilted weekender bag. It was a super intense project for my first time teaching, but all in all I think it went really well. I had 4 wonderful ladies as my students. We had so much fun together! 

My Leopard Print Weekender Bag was the class sample and it was so fun to walk into Sew to Speak and see MY bag in there on display for a few months! 

I love doing tutorials on my blog teaching how to make some of the things I make, so I knew I would enjoy teaching a sewing class in real life. It really pushed me out of my comfort zone though. I don't like having the spotlight on me and tend to be a little on the quiet side until you get to know me, but it was great for me to push myself a little bit and put myself out there.

I figured it would be beneficial to show my students step by step instructions- just like I do on my tutorials. So I decided to make a bag along side my students. Each night I came to class with what we would be doing already complete on my bag so they could see and visualize what their bags needed to look like. It was a good teaching tool for me- plus I had already planned to make a bag for my other little sis, so it gave me the motivation to complete it.  

Here are all of our finished bags together!

So here is how my weekender bag #5 turned out.

I used a kitchen utensil print that I found at Sew To Speak called Scandinavia Style (which I think is manufactured by Westex Fabric) for the Main panels but I have had a hard time finding somewhere that sells it online to link to- so if you are interested in this print, you could call into the shop and I am sure Anita would be happy to send some your way via mail if they still have some in stock. 

I loved all of the colors in the main print and just grabbed various coordinating fabrics from my stash for the patchwork portion of the bag.

It is definitely a loud and funky bag- but that's the fun of it in my eyes! I love putting together something that I know is one of a kind- unlike any bag out there... This one fits the bill! :)

If you are a regular reader of my blog, or follow me on instagram, you will know that I kinda have a mild obsession with this pattern- well maybe "mild" is too mild of a word... This is the 5th version I have made! BUT- making #5 and teaching this bag in a class has helped me kick my habit- at least for a little bit.

I don't wanna make this bag again for a very LONG time! 

Don't get me wrong... I love it with all of my heart... but 5 times making this puppy- plus teaching it has me worn out- mentally and physically! ha ha 

I used the Amy Butler Weekender Bag Pattern to make my bag, but followed a Quilt as You Go method inspired by Elizabeth of Oh, Fransson. 

If you are interested in some of the other modifications that I make to my weekender bag, here are links to other posts that I talk more about that in:

Weekender Bag #1

Weekender Bag #2

Weekender Bag #3

Weekender Bag #4

Happy Sewing!

xoxo, Ashley

Quilted Ukulele Case Tutorial

(I originally shared this fun tutorial over on the Fabricworm blog)
Last summer by husband bought each of my girls a ukulele. He plays the guitar and has been wanting to get the girls started with music. The ukes seemed like the perfect size to start out with.

He got Makala Dolphin Bridge Soprano Ukuleles. One is the light blue burst color and the other is the pink burst color. We have been super happy with them. 

 They each came with a very soft/flimsy case which protected from minor scratches. Of course I needed to make something stronger and cuter to protect them- So I came up with this tutorial.

Now don't worry if you don't have a ukulele... this tutorial will help you draft a pattern that can cater to whatever you would like to make a case for- guitar, string instrument, etc.

 Like I said, I made the cases for a soprano Makala Dolphin ukulele, so if you have this same uke your measurements will be similar but be sure to measure as you go because as I found out the hard way- even though I have 2 of the same uke- they are slightly different shaped and sized. 

So your fabric measurements will just depend on what you are making the case for- but I will let you know what I used to give you an idea.

Supplies:

1/2 yard main fabric (exterior)

1/2 yard coordination fabric (interior)

1 fat quarter contrasting fabric (piping and handles)

3 1/4 yard  of 6/32" cotton cording to make my own piping (you could buy premade piping if you want)

1/2 yard duck cloth (I used this because I wanted extra stability for the case holding it's shape but it does add a bit of bulk when sewing- so if you wish to leave out the duck cloth and just go with the fusible fleece and fabric I am sure it would work fine too)

1/2 yard fusible fleece or leftover scraps of quilt batting

1- 36" robe zipper

(like I said before- you may need different yardage/supplies if you are making your case for something else.)

For both of my cases, I used 5 fabrics from the new Wee Wander line by Sarah Jane... Wander Woods in Petal, Wander Woods in Turquoise, Summer Ride in Melon, Meandering in Petal , Tree Lights in Rose.

Step #1: To start you need to trace your instrument on some paper. You will want this first tracing to be pretty exact. Once you have your outline, you will need to add some room all around the first traced line to account for seam allowances and wiggle room. I added 3/4 inch around the entire uke. (this picture is deceiving as it was hard to get a shot of it straight on- sorry about that... look at the base of the uke to get a better idea of how much room I added.)

 Step #2: Once you have your pattern for the front and back of the case you will use it to cut out 2 pieces in your main fabric, 2 pieces in duck cloth, and 2 pieces of your batting/fleece. You will want to cut your batting down 1/2 inch on all sides to reduce the bulk in your seam allowance when sewing.

Step #3: Place your batting on top of your duck cloth and your main fabric on top of the batting and quilt however you would like. I used a wavy stitch on my machine and quilted in straight lines. Quilt both your front and back panels.

Step #4: Next it's time to baste your piping on. (if you need help making your piping- here is a great tutorial  -for my piping I cut my bias strips 1 1/2 inch thick). Pin your piping on and baste around the edges of the main panels with a basting stitch. Even though your piping is cut on the bias and stretches, you may need to put some snips/notches in the seam allowance of the piping to get it to go around all of the curves of your pattern. Once you have both quilted panels trimmed in your piping- set aside for a minute.

Step #5:Now you will need to measure the depth or thickness of your instrument. My ukulele is 2 inches thick. 

One thing to note is that I made two cases- the first I made so it basically fit my uke like a glove- which I absolutely love the look of- but since it fits like a glove, zipping it up is kinda like putting on your jeans fresh out of the dryer- you gotta wiggle and jiggle to get the zipper shut.  The second case I gave it an extra 1/2 inch more in the depth of the case so it doesn't have any problem closing, but it definitely isn't as snug tight in the case. So decide what will work best for your project and alter accordingly.

You will need to add at least 1 1/4 inch for seam allowance to your depth measurement and more if you want it roomier. (when you sew your bag together- you use around a 1/2" seam allowance)

Ok.. my uke is 2 inches thick so I knew with seam allowance and putting my zipper in I needed to make my panel 3 1/4 inch thick (for the snug case) and 3 3/4 inch thick on the loose fitting case. The zipper I used is 36 inches, so I cut two panels that were 36 x 1.75 inches (for the snug case) and 36 x 2 inches (for the looser case). Once I put my zipper in they were the thickness I was hoping for. 

So calculate your measurements for the length and thickness of panels you will need. Then cut out 2 in your main fabric, 2 in duck cloth, and two in batting (but still cut your batting down a half inch smaller on all sides to reduce bulk). Layer them as you did the previous panels and quilt as desired.

I found my zipper at Joanns and it was the only one like it that was a smaller/daintier zipper but really long (36")- it's called a Robe zipper. If you are making this case for a bigger instrument you will want a longer and possibly heftier zipper. 

  Step #6: Sew your zipper into your panels. 

Place your zipper face down on the right side of one of your panels and pin in place. Use your zipper foot and stitch. Open up and place your other side of your zipper face down on the ride side of the other panel and stitch. 

 Step #7: Press your zipper panel open and top stitch. 

 I like to use a little trick of using my blind hem stitch foot to get my stitch perfectly straight, but you can use a regular presser foot as well- stitch about 1/8" from the zipper to give it a finished look and hold your zipper open on the back side. (see below)

Step #8: Make your top panel for your case. 

Start by measuring around the edge of one of your main panels- use a soft measuring tape so you can get an exact measurement. My perimeter was 56 inches.  

 So to determine the size for your top panel-

take the measurement of the perimeter of your main panel minus the length of your zipper panel plus a 1/2" for your seam allowance. 

Mine equation was 56"-36"+.5"=20.5"

Next measure the width of your zipper panel- mine was 3 1/4". 

So I cut a panel that was 20.5" x 3.25" in duck cloth, main fabric, and batting (but make sure you trim your batting to be smaller as you have in the previous panels). Quilt this panel as desired. 

Step #9: Place one end of your top panel right sides together with one end of your zipper panel and stitch with a 1/4" seam allowance. 

 Repeat with the opposite ends of the two panels. When you are done, you should have a circular panel.

 Step #10: Time to start assembling the case. You will need to pin your circular zipper+top panel piece right sides together to one of your main panels (your piping should be sandwiched in between these layers- already basted on). At this point you will want to determine where you would like the zipper placement. For mine, my zipper starts at the middle of the base of my uke and wraps around one whole side and up and over to the other side at the top of the ukulele's neck. Once I had it pinned, I got my other main panel and marked where the zipper placement was so I would have not trouble lining it up in the correct place when sewing on the other side of the case. 

Now put your zipper foot on your machine and move your needle so it is positioned so you can stitch as close to the piping as you can- your seam allowance will be roughly 1/2". Now it's time to stitch. Don't get discouraged on this part- it is kinda tricky sewing through the layers of the duck cloth and getting a close fit. Just stitch around once and then look to see if you need to go over any areas to get a closer stitch. If your machine is having a hard time stitching through it you could use a heavy needle.

Once the first side of the case is stitched to the zipper panel, it's time to pin your other side of your case on and stitch. Use those marks you made as a guide of where to line up your panel with the zipper openings so you get it even. One thing to remember is that you will need to open your zipper up so that when you stitch this side on you have a way to turn it right side out. When it is all pinned in place go ahead and stitch like you did with the first side. Again- don't get frustrated- just go slow and sew as close to that piping as you can get. 

Wheww... Take a deep breath- you are finished with the trickiest part! 

Step #11: Ok... now let's talk handles... Depending on the size of your instrument you may need a different size/heavier handle than what I made- but for mine I just used my cotton fabric and cut a piece that was 4" x 7". Then I pressed the ends in 1/4" on each side (making it 6.5" now). Then I folded and pressed in half (so it was 2x6.5") and then opened up and folded the raw edges in towards the center and pressed and then folded back over so the handle piece was 1"x6.5" with all of the raw edges tucked in. Then I stitch 1/8" from the edge around the whole thing to create my strap/handle.

I found that it was best to complete my case, put my instrument inside the case, and then pin the handle on the top panel (not the zipper side) to figure out where it needed to go. You will want your handle wherever it needs to go on the case so that the weight of your instrument is distributed evenly. Once it is pinned in place, you can stitch a 1" square on either side of the handle to secure it.

(in this picture below it shows me placing the handle on before trying my instrument in the case and I ended up having to pick out the stitches and redoing it because the position wasn't right to have the weight distributed equally.)

 Now it is time for the lining. Cut out panels in your lining fabric. You will need 2 main panels, 2 of the panels you used for your zipper panel, and 1 top panel. Use the same measurements that you used in the previous steps. 

Step #12: You need to recreate your circular top/zipper panel- but with out the zipper. So take the two strips you cut for your zipper panel and press in 1/4 inch on two edges that meet together where the zipper would go. Then place them right side together with the top panel and stitch in place with a 1/4" seam allowance. (picture below explains this if you are confused) Repeat for opposite ends... You should now have a circular panel like you did in step #9.

 Step #13: Use the exterior of the bag and mark on your lining pieces where the zipper start and stop is so you can position the lining exact. Then put together the lining like you did for the exterior of the case. Luckily this is 10 times easier since you are just using cotton fabric and not duck cloth! ;) 

Step #14: Hand stitch the lining into the case. I  hand basted the seam allowances of my lining to the seam allowances of the case so that the lining was held snug where it needs to be and isn't just hanging loose in there. (you could probably use fabric glue to glue your seam allowances together if you wanted too.) And then I just tucked the raw edge of my lining in as I went and whip stitched my lining in. 

That's it! You are all done!! 

Happy Sewing!

xoxo, Ashley

Star Wars Messenger Bags

Since I don't have any boys (yet), I rarely sew with "boy" fabric. Last summer I wanted to make something that would be "cool" enough for my 2 darling nephews to use. Since I was making all of my nieces Oliver + S Messenger Bags, I thought I would make some for my nephews too.

 They are lovers of all things Star Wars... So I went in search of the "coolest" Star Wars fabric I could find. For my oldest nephew, I wanted to get something that wasn't too over the top... He just turned 12 and I wanted something that had the Star Wars vibe but was a little more grown up looking. I came across this fabric. I loved it!

 He is also learning to play the guitar so I knew that some Michael Miller Groovy Guitar fabric was in order for the lining. I trimmed it all in a light grey solid and used some Michael Miller Huevos Dot in Stone for the strap. I really love the way it turned out!

For my youngest nephew I went with a fabric that definitely screamed Star Wars. I found this fabric at Joann's. I loved that it was navy (my favorite color). Even though it is definitely a Star Wars looking fabric, I felt like it was a bit classier since it was only navy and white (instead of a bunch of bright colors like most other Star Wars fabrics are).

 I lined the bag with Riley Blake Medium Chevron in Navy. Then I trimmed in a solid navy and used the navy for the strap too.

I really like how this one turned out. It was a lot of fun working with some boy fabric for a change! :)

Happy Sewing!!

xoxo, Ashley

Heather Bailey Messenger Bag

Happy New Years everyone! I hope you all had a happy holiday season!! I spent the last 6 weeks with family in Utah... It was a total blast!

I am home now and just trying to get back into my groove! It's been about 2 months since I touched my sewing machine and I am just itching to get working on a project!! In the meantime I thought I would share some projects that I never got around to sharing last year... Some messenger bags I made for my nieces and nephews.

When I made my first Oliver + S Messenger bag I fell in love with the pattern. I found the patter in the Oliver + S Little Things to Sew book. It is done so well and I just love making it. (I think I could make it in my sleep after making it 9 times now! ha ha)

  This is the version that I made for two of my nieces. The small version of the pattern works great for toddlers and the large version of the pattern works great for bigger kids.

Check back for the other versions I made of this bag... I will share them later this week! 

Happy Sewing! 

xoxo, Ashley

Little House Needlebook Tutorial

Can you believe that there is only 8 more days until Christmas!? Although most of my shopping and handmade gifts are finished up, I am definitely feeling like it is crunch time to finish up those last minute projects and gifts! So if you are like me and looking for something quick and easy gift to make a sewing buddy- I have the perfect project for you! 

 A little house needlebook. It's quick and easy, but packs a big punch since it is just so cute and tiny! :) I loved my Little House Zipper Pouch so much that I wanted to make a needlebook that was similar so I came up with this....

This project is perfect for using up small scraps of fabric lying around... All you'll need is a bit of fabric, some trim (mini pom poms, ric rac, lace, etc) a couple buttons, some batting, and a hair elastic.

To start, cut the fabric for your little house. You will need Two pieces that are 3 1/2 x 4 1/2 inches for the main part of your house. Two pieces of fabric that are 3 x 4 1/2 inches for the roof of your house. And two pieces of trim that are 4 1/2 inches long. Lay your trim on top of the piece for your house and then pin the roof piece right sides together and stitch. Open and press the seam towards the roof and then top stitch above the trim. Repeat with the other house/trim/roof panel.

Next you will trim your roof. I chose to have a pointed roof but you can make your roof however you would like. Once your roof is trimmed you can personalize your house however you would like. I added a door and two windows and just raw edge appliqued them to my little house- then added a small button door knob to the door.

( Ok- in this next picture- pretend that both roofs are cut to a point!)

Next take a strip of fabric that is 1 inch by approx. 4 inches. You will trim off the excess so it doesn't need to be exact. Now you are going to join your front and back of the house together. 

 Line the strip of fabric up with one side of the house (right sides together and sew with a 1/4 inch seam) then stitch the other side of the house to the other side of the strip of fabric. Once the front and back of the house are connected you can trim off any excess joining fabric.

Now that you have the outside of your needlbook complete you will use it as a guide and cut out one piece of batting and one piece of fabric for the inside of your needlebook.

 Next cut a 1 1/2 inch piece of an elastic hairband. Fold it in a loop and stitch it to the back side of the house. 

Now it is time to sew your needlebook together. Put the inside and outside fabric right sides together with the batting on top. 

Stitch all the way around the needlebook with a 1/4 inch seam allowance but leave a 2 inch opening on the base of the back side of the house to turn it all right sides out. Before turning it right sides out, trip the points of your house and clip the seam allowance generously in "V" of the roofs to ease the curve once it is turned right sides out. Be careful not to clip through the seams. If you turn it right side out and it isn't laying flat or is puckering there you need to clip more- again- be sure not to clip through the stitched seam.

 Turn it right side out and hand stitch the opening closed. 

Next it is time to sew in your pages of your needlbook. You can add as many as you would like and can make them the shape of the house or a simple rectangle like I did. Just measure the size you would like it to be and cut it out of a piece of felt. Line up the pages and stitch a line down the middle of the sheets of felt to hold it in place. You can use a decorative scissor to make the edges of your pages pretty if you would like.

Now all that is left is to stitch a button to the front of your needlebook for your elastic to wrap onto. (I hand stitched around the edge of my needlebook too with pearl cotton just for fun but it's not necessary!)

That's it! Now you have the perfect handmade sewing gift to give someone just in time for Christmas! 

I hope you all have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! I am taking the rest of December off to be spend time with family so I will see you in 2014! 

xoxo, Ashley