Friday, July 19, 2013

Camera Cozy Tutorial

I originally shared this tutorial over at U Create.

I love my DSLR camera, but sometimes it's nice to  carry something smaller when I am out and about and don't want to add too much weight to my purse or worry about my gear getting snatched if I set it down at a park. So I decided to invest in an inexpensive point and shoot camera that I can throw into a bag when I am running out the door. 

Instead of buying a case for my camera, I decided to make one.


This project is really simple- I made mine in about an hour (but I made my own bias tape so that took up a bit of the time).


What you will need is:
1-2 fat quarters (depending on if you want your interior fabric to be different that your exterior fabric)
1 yard of 1/2 wide double fold bias tape (store bought or homemade)
fusible fleece
1 large snap (velcro could be used as well)
*Optional: 1 button (I used a 1/2 fabric covered button)


Ok... to start you will need to measure your camera. For the purpose of keeping things clear and understandable- here is a picture of how I got the measurements of my camera and calculated for my pattern.


The width of my camera is 3 3/4 inches.
The height of my camera is 2 1/4 inches.
The depth of my camera is 3/4 inch.

To create my pattern, for the front panel, I made mine 4 1/2 inches by 3 1/4 inches. So to calculate yours, you will take your width measurement and add 3/4 inch and then take your height measurement and add 1 inch.
For the back panel, I made mine 8 inches by 3 1/4 inches. This accounts for the back and also the flap that wraps over to the front and snaps. So to calculate yours, you will take the width measurement and add 4 1/4 inch to it and then take your height measurement and add 1 inch to it. (it will be the same measurement as the height in your front panel.)
For the side panel, I made mine 1 1/2 inches by 12 inches. So to calculate yours, you will will take your depth measurement and add 3/4 inch to it and then you will take the measurements you used in your front panel and add them together and then subtract 1/2 inch. (ex: width+width+height-1/2 inch).
I hope that makes sense! It kind of helps to draw a picture to keep it straight! :)

If your camera is pretty close to the size of mine you may not need to change any measurements for your camera cozy. My cozy doesn't fit like a glove- there is a bit of extra room- so if you want yours smaller or bigger for your camera, just make the necessary adjustments in your measurements.

Step 1: Once you have your measurements, you will need to cut 2 front panels, 2 side panels, and then 2 back panels. In my case I cut one of each in the blue floral fabric and then one of each in the red polka dot for contrast, but like I said, this project can totally be done with one fat quarter.
When you have your panels cut out, you will need to apply fusible fleece to each panel you have cut (you should have 6 panels total).


I opted for a rounded flap but you could totally keep it square if you would like. If you want it rounded, use a bowl as a guide and cut the top on both back panels so that they are uniformly round.


Step 2: Take your two back panels and put them wrong side together and baste them together with a 1/4 inch seam allowance and your machines longest stitch length. Set aside.



Step 3: Take the interior side panel and front panel and pin them together starting at the top and working the fabric down and around the two bottom corners. Repeat with the exterior side panel and front panel.


When you are finished they should look like this. Sew along the pins on each panel with a generous 1/4 seam allowance.


Step 4: Take your inside panel and put it into your outside panel and line up the raw edges and pin in place. I didn't choose to trim the seam allowances after sewing in step 3- just to give it that extra padding, but I did have to kinda cram the lining in to get them to match up, so do whatever works best for your needs.


Step 5: Set your stitch length to the longest your machine has and baste along the top, sides, and bottom of the case with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Step 6: Apply bias tape to the top of the case by pinning it to the interior and sewing and then folding it over to the exterior and sewing in place. If you need a good tutorial on how to apply bias tape- here is a fabulous one! 


Step 7: Pin the front of the case onto the back panel. Baste with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.



Step 8: Apply bias tape to the front of the case, joining your ends of tape at the base of the case.


Step 9: Fold bias tape over to the back and stitch. Be sure to be extra tidy when stitching because your stitches will be visible on the front of the case.

Step 10: Sew on your large snap for the closure.

Step 11: Sew your button to the front of the flap.


That's it! Easy peasy right?!?

Sunday, July 7, 2013

Hexies.... A method to my madness!

Hexies (or hexagons) are probably one of my favorite sewing projects to work on right now. I think they are fun to put together- but I mainly love making them because I do not have to be tied to my sewing machine and can work on them anywhere! 


I first discovered them about 2 years ago when I came across one of my favorite blogs: nanaCompany. Aaaannddd... if you haven't been sucked into the hexie-ing world... you will soon be sucked in after checking out the darling little things that Amy makes with hexies. I stumbled across Tasha'sand Kerri's adorable blogs shortly after and they sealed the deal... I was set on learning how to do english paper piecing.


I learned how to make hexies by following this tutorial on Chasing Cottons and I was hooked from the get-go. I picked up some 1 1/2 hexagon papers from Paper Pieces and started using all of my favorite "cutesy" fabrics from my stash. I was determined to make a Grandmother's Flower Garden quilt for my girls to share. I figured that to make the size quilt that I would like (full sized) I will need just over 1200 hexies! ha ha ha 
It's pure madness- I know!
I plan to use solid white hexagons around the patterned "flowers" to break up the colors and really set each flower apart. And... since it will all be completely hand pieced it just wouldn't seem right to quilt it with a machine- that would be preposterous! ;) I will probably be using pearl cottons when I hand quilt it.

I started working on it last October. Since then I have taken my hexies on 2 road trips and just try to work on them here and there. 
It is slow going, but I just love it and I am slowly building a stash of hexies to work with.



For a while, my hexies were kinda scattered and didn't have a specific place to be gathered, but a couple months ago, I came across a letterbox at Target and knew it would be perfect for my hexies.

So this is how I store them all now... It is handy when I am on the road too because everything I need can just sit right in my lap.


These are my favorite tools/items to make my hexies... 

Paper pieces: I get mine already precut from PaperPieces.com
Acrylic template: I like to use fabric that is shaped like a hexagon so that I can center my fabric and the paper to make sure I have enough seam allowance on all sides. Plus it is see through so I can fussy cut hexagons if I want. (I got mine at paperpieces.com and it allows for a 3/8 inch seam allowance)
large paper clip: to hold the fabric to the paper template while basting
John James needles: I really love this brand of needles for everything.
50 wt Aurifil thread: I love Aurifil thread and the 50 wt is the perfect weight for piecing my hexies together. I am using tan for piecing  the colored fabric and will probably switch to white when I work on the white hexies.
a spool of cheap contrasting colored thread: this is to use while making your hexies- you want a contrasting color so that you can see where to clip the threads once you have pieced your hexies together and need to remove your papers

I picked up this paper clip trick from Lori and it has saved my life!  The trick for me is not to push the paper clip all the way down because the sharp ends of the paper clip really tugs at the fabric when you pull it off- which is why I like using a large paper clip- I can push it halfway down and it still really holds the fabric in place and then it slips off easy when it's time to remove it.


This is what the front and back of my hexies look like when I am done. I like to stitch through my papers (just a personal preference) and I can still reuse my papers because I find that when I use them a second or third time I almost always stick the needle into the same exact hole that I had made the first time...


I know this project will be an endless work in progress, but it's kinda nice to have something to work on when I am watching a movie, or sitting at the park, or riding in the car places....


Happy Hexie-ing!!

Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Marcelle Medallion Pillow

A few months ago, I decided that I wanted to make a Marcelle Medallion quilt- even though I had about a million other projects going on at the same time. 
I am kinda weird about finishing things when I start them, and I tend not to have too many W.I.P. (work in progress) projects lying around. Instead, I try to work on something until I finish it before starting another project..... but this time I threw caution to the wind and started my Marcelle Medallion since I was so excited and everyone else was doing it! ;)



I loved making my center medallion for the quilt, but once I finished it, other projects took precedence and I was forced to put my budding Marcelle away. For months it was eating at me that I had such a beautiful WIP that I couldn't get to and knew I wouldn't be able to get to for a while. So, one afternoon, I decided to turn her into something smaller than originally planned and got to hand stitching...


I knew a pillow would be the perfect project and I had a dear friend that moved across town, so a house warming gift was in order... 



I used double fold bias to finish the edge of the pillow and give it a pop of pattern/color. I opted for an envelope closure. I used a cute little twill tape label that says "stitched with love" that I found at this darling etsy shop.


I definitely have plans to make a full Marcelle Medallion quilt in the near future. I love, loooove the pattern and I have been so inspired by the other quilts I have seen in the land of sewing blogs. I can't wait!

Thursday, June 20, 2013

iPad Mini Cargo Case + Tutorial


I think my iPad mini has to be one of my favorite possessions. I love it... like a lot. 
Since I got it for Christmas, I have just had a clear hard case on the back of it. The case doesn't do much to protect it except for scratches on the back, but I kinda like that it keeps it small and un-bulky (is that even a word?!). The only problem is- I like to take my ipad places and I have been cringing every time I have tossed it into a bag full of things that could scratch or damage it- so it was high time I did something about it. 

Let me introduce you to the little home I made for my mini... I think it's kinda cute, but still very functional: win-win.


When I was designing the pattern for the case, I knew that I wanted to have a simple sleeve that my mini would slide into quickly but I also wanted to have a place to store the charging cord while traveling so I decided on a little cargo pocket on the front. It turned out pretty nifty! ;)


It's padded with a layer of duck cloth and quilt batting in between the outside and inside panels of the case so it is nice and safe while stored within.


I made mine for my iPad mini, but it would be super easy to change the measurements and make it for  a regular sized iPad, kindle, tablet, etc.

Here is what you will need to make it:
-2 fat quarters
-1 package of 1/2 double fold bias tape (unless you want to make your own like I did)
-a bit of leftover quilt batting or fusible fleece
-duck cloth
-one large snap, magnetic clasp, or velcro for closure of flap
- 7.5 inches of 1/2 elastic (you could use 1/4 inch if desired as well)
-1 inch button (optional)
-light interfacing (optional: depending on weight of fabric- I used quilting cotton so I used light interfacing on the cargo pocket)

Measurements for cutting fabric:
Fabric A & B: cut one of each size per fabric-
-9 x 7.5 inch (front of case)
-12 x 7.5 inch (back of case/ top flap)
(optional: I used a bowl as a guide to slightly curve the top edge for the flap on the 12 x 7.5 panel on both fabric A & B- there is about a 2 inch overhang of the flap when closed so be sure to not round your edge further than around the 10 inch mark on your panel if that makes sense)
 - 4 x 9.5 inch
- 2 x 6.75 inch (this will be your flap for the cargo pocket- I used a bowl to slightly curve the bottom edge of these as well)



Next you will want to cut your quilt batting/fusible fleece and duck cloth panels. You will use one of the largest rounded panels and one of the 9 x 7.5 inch panel and use them as a guide to cut one panel of duck cloth exactly the same size of each. Next you will cut your batting/fusible fleece- you will want to cut your batting slightly smaller than the panel so you reduce bulk while sewing. 
When you are done you should have 2 duck cloth panels and 2 batting panels total.

Step 1: Quilt your main panels. I did a very basic quilting on my 2 main panels- just a couple straight lines of stitches to hold the layers together, but you can go as crazy or conservative as you would like on this step. To start take your large curved panel pieces and create your "quilt sandwich"- you will start by putting the interior fabric wrong side up, followed by the duck cloth, followed by the batting, and ending with the exterior fabric right side up and use pins to hold the 4 layers together while quilting. You will layer the smaller 9 x 7.5 inch panel the same way and quilt both as desired. Set your two main panels aside.


Step 2: Create your cargo pocket. Take your two 4 x 9.5 inch panels and apply interfacing if desired. Then put them right sides together and sew along one of the long edges using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Press the seams open and then fold in half with right sides facing out and press top edge again.

Step 3: Create a casing for your elastic. I used 1/2 so I created a casing that was slightly larger than 1/2 so that the elastic fit very snug.
After your casing is sewn, set your stitch length to the longest your machine allows and sew a basting stitch along the raw edge of the panel you have created. This will be for gathering the bottom of the cargo pocket. Take your 9 x 7.5 inch quilted panel and gather the bottom of your cargo pocket so that it is 7.5 inches wide and pin and baste it to the bottom of your quilt panel.

Step 4: Feed your elastic into the casing by using a small safety pin to guide it through. 

 Once you have it evenly fed through pin the side edged of the cargo pocket to the side of the main quilted panel and baste them together. Be sure when basting that you catch the elastic good and back stitch over it well to secure it so it doesn't come loose while completing the next steps.

Step 5: Take your two curved panels for the cargo pocket flap and apply interfacing if desired. Place them wrong side together and pin the bias tape along the curved edge of the interior side or "wrong side" of the flap and sew. Then fold your bias tap over to the right side and pin in place and stitch to the front side of the flap. You may need to press well afterwards to help the panel lie completely flat. 

Step 6: Apply bias tape to the top edge of the flap. Pin your bias binding to the "wrong side" of the flap but leave an inch overhang of binding on each side and sew. Next instead of folding the bias tape over to the "right side" of the flap and stitching in place, fold it over to the "right side" of the flap and then pin the flap with the overhanging edges of bias tape to the main panel just above the gathered pocket. Once you have it pinned evenly, you will stitch along the bottom edge of the bias binding to secure to the flap and main panel of the case and then you will also stitch along the top edge of the binding to secure the binding to the main panel even more. 
 Step 7:Apply bias tape to the top edge of the main panel.

*If you are using velcro or anything other than a snap as your closure, you may want to apply it to the pocketed panel you have just created so that you don't have to wrangle it once the case is all put together.*

Step 8: ( not pictured) Place the main pocket panel  on top of the quilted large panel with the curved edge on top so the the interior fabrics are facing right side together and the exterior of the case if facing out. Line up the squared edges at the base of each panel and pin along the side and bottom of the panels to hold them together. Baste along the pinned edges to secure both panels.

Step 9: Apply bias tape to the case. I pinned the bias tape to the back of the case and had the edges of my bias tape connect at the bottom of the case so that the seam wasn't as noticeable. Then fold the edges of the binding over to the front of the case and pin in place and sew. 


Step 10: Sew your closure. I chose to use a large snap, and then I added a fabric covered button on the flap just for kicks. Remove any visible basting stitches if necessary.

That's it! Pretty slick huh? 


Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Out to Sea Quilt

One of my very favorite quilt blogs is Red Pepper Quilts. I love Rita's style and I can always count on her to inspire me daily with the things she creates! When I saw her Pieced Scrap Border quilt tutorial a couple years ago I knew that I wanted to make one very similar! 


I followed her tutorial to put together my blocks but changed up the measurements a bit- I used 2.5 inch strips instead of 1.5. I had to throw in the map in the middle because it just seemed like the perfect place for it, and also added some borders.



I absolutely love the Out to Sea line from Sarah Jane. Most of the fabrics I used in this quilt are from the line, but I did throw in a handful of other scraps I had lying around.


When I was initially gathering my fabric and planning for the quilt, I was only going to use navy blue and pink. Last minute I decided to throw in some orange to match the mermaids hair and I am so glad that I did. I love the colors and it is one of my favorite quilts I have made thus far!


I wanted this quilt to be light and easy for my daughter to drag around the house, so I backed it in minky and skipped adding batting. I love the weight of it.



I quilted straight lines diagonally creating large X's through each block. 



I used all of the leftover scraps to create a super scrappy binding... It wasn't the smoothest binding with seams every 2 inches at some points but I love how it turned out. 






Monday, June 3, 2013

Happy Hexagon Trivets

There are certain people that just inspire me with everything they make... Ayumi is one of them... 

When her book Patchwork, Please came out I knew that it was going to be awesome! I bought it knowing without a doubt that I would not be disappointed! Every project is darling in this book!

I was most excited about the Happy Hexagon Trivet... It is adorable! I knew it would make the perfect Mother's Day present for my mom.


To make the trivet you foundation paper piece the top. I love foundation paper piecing! Everything turns out PERFECT! I was so pleased with this project... I made a couple for my mom and one for my grandma . I think this will be my go-to housewarming gift for the future! It is simple but packs a big punch when you use up all your favorite scraps! :)



Another darling project in the book is this Prettified Pincushion... It is also foundation paper pieced. I knew it would be the perfect gift for my mom-in-law since she likes to sew as well. 

My hubby's grandma loves to drink tea so I figured that I would make her a "mug rug" for her tea cup... I made a mini version of the hexagon trivet by just printing it at 100% instead of enlarging it like that pattern calls for. 
You can see the difference in size... It was a cute tiny thing! :)

I LOVE THIS BOOK! I definitely recommend it to anyone that loves making pretty little things! Check out the Flickr pool for the book to see some of the things others have made by using patterns found in the book.